How to Mulch a Garden Yourself

Soils not only provide anchorage for your plant’s roots but also vital nutrients, water, and airflow. In order for your garden and the plants within it to thrive, it’s crucial to encase all of that energy beneath the surface, and protect the integrity of your plant beds. This is why mulch is such a crucial component of a gardener’s arsenal.

What Is Garden Mulch?

Mulches are loose materials used to cover the top layer of soil and trap valuable nutrients and moisture. They can be used over bare soil as well as over compost, and provide a wide range of benefits for gardens:

• Aiding moisture retention
• Reducing the need for watering
• Suppressing weed growth
• Adding extra nutrients
• Deterring pests
• Keeping soil warm in spring
• Giving protection for plant roots
• Cultivating good organisms
• Separating edible crops from soil
• Offering an attractive finish

Different Types of Mulch

There are lots of different types of mulch, all of which can be categorised into to distinct groups.

Organic Mulches

• Shredded leaves: These can work as a brilliant soil conditioner, with the leaf mould naturally breaking down and feeding the soil over time. A crucial downside is their wetness, which can affect oxygen and moisture absorption in the soil below.
• Grass clippings: In order to use these as mulch, they will need to be dried and spread in a thin layer over the soil. Keep in mind that you cannot use grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with inorganic foods or chemicals.
• Straw and hay: A decent and inexpensive option that provides light coverage, straw and hay decomposes quickly and cleanly, and will retain soil moisture. Avoid applying them to areas around edible crops, as straw beds can attract rodents, slugs, and other pests.
• Pine needles: These look good and are weighty enough to stay where you put them, unlike some leaves and grasses which can be easily lifted by the wind. They break down very slowly and are safe in terms of pH for use with most kinds of soil.
• Horse manure: Chock full of nutrients and a brilliant retainer of moisture, horse manure can be laid around edible crops (squashes and pumpkins get on very well with it) and plants such as roses. Opt for manures that have been left to rot for a minimum of two years, in order to prevent scorching and nutrient sponging.
• Garden compost: Homemade compost mixes can work well as mulches, and can be made easily at home via the usual methods (i.e. scraps from the kitchen and excess garden waste) or bought locally.
• Woodchips and bark: One of the heaviest types of organic mulch, woodchips and bark are best for providing heavy-duty protection against weeds and pests. They will help the soil retain plenty of moisture and nutrients, whilst ensuring healthy airflow and keeping the plant in question stable in any weather.
• Mushroom-based: Also known as ‘spent mushroom compost’, this mix is very alkaline-rich and easy to lay yourself. With such a high pH level, you should be careful where you use mushroom-based mulch. Vegetables such as broccoli, kale, and cabbage will thrive in it, for example, but most other plant life will fair poorly.

Inorganic Mulches

• Rocks and gravel: Efficient at sealing in moisture and preventing weeds, rocks can be susceptible to overheating in the summer months. You should only use rocks and gravel to mulch the soil around hardy, drought-resistant plants such as lavender, rosemary, and juniper.
• Plastic films: Black plastic coverings are often used over plant beds that require intense humidity and heat containment. Coverings can also protect vined crops such as cucumbers, melons, and strawberries, and prevent rotting. Be wary of using plastic films over certain areas or growths with shallow roots, as they can prevent water and oxygen penetration.
• Geotextiles: Also known as ‘landscape fabrics’, these inorganic materials help the transmission of water and air whilst putting a firm stop to weeds. It’s worth noting that geotextiles can depreciate if they are exposed to too much sunlight. Try using them as a second layer of mulch to avoid this and maintain a natural aesthetic.
• Rubber-based: Usually made from recycled tires, rubber mulch is a powerful weed suppressor. As rubbers slowly decompose, there is a risk of toxic substances passing through your soil, so we would generally not recommend opting for this inorganic mulching solution.

How to Mulch Your Garden in 8 Steps

1. Clear the ground of weeds and excess plant materials.
2. If the soil is particularly dry, water well before moving on.
3. Apply your chosen mulch evenly with your hands or a spade.
4. Remember to maintain an optimal depth of around 2 to 3 inches.
5. Leave plenty of space for plant stems when mulching your soil.
6. Once your plot is covered, use a plastic rake or garden hoe to level the area.
7. Keep mulch well-maintained and adjust where weather or season permits.
8. Most mulch should be replaced once a year, but certain types will differ.

Get the Job Done Right

Looking for an easier way to recycle grass clippings straight back into your lawn? A mulching mower could be the ideal solution. These machines finely shred cuttings and redistribute them as nutrient-rich mulch – saving you time while feeding your soil naturally. Browse our full range of mulching lawnmowers or explore all lawnmower types to find the right fit for your garden.